2023/10/11 02:08

◆制作:FIND Chichibu ちちぶシルク研究分科会
◆製造:逸見織物
Design Concept for the Meisen Fabric: "Maple"
When I was asked to create a Meisen design inspired by maple, I began by considering how to express three key elements as a unified whole:
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The individuality of Japanese culture, including kimono aesthetics
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The impression and beauty of the maple leaf itself
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The distinctive characteristics of Chichibu Meisen
In Fūshikaden, Zeami praises the beauty of young performers aged 12 or 13 but refers to their charm as a fleeting "flower of the moment"—not yet the "true flower." I interpreted this to mean that what we perceive as beauty lies in the potential for growth, the imaginative space that allows us to envision what lies ahead. It is not a void, but a reflection of trust in human creativity.
In expressing the "individuality of Japanese aesthetics," I chose to emphasize concepts such as yūgen, wabi-sabi, and iki—an appreciation of imperfection. While the maple’s rich, seasonal hues are a signature of the plant itself, I intentionally rendered the leaves in grayscale, creating a space for the wearer’s own expression. Through colorful sashes, linings, or accessories, one can enjoy interpreting the changing seasons, infusing the piece with personal nuance.
To convey the maple itself, I selected a highly recognizable leaf shape and represented it as close to life-size as possible, ensuring the design would clearly evoke the motif.
As for the characteristics of Chichibu Meisen, I wrestled with several ideas. Should I include traditional Japanese patterns? Should I design the layout with visual density and spacing in mind to look beautiful when hung on a loom?
Today, Meisen fabrics are often repurposed into smaller items rather than full garments, so the design also needed to accommodate flexible uses.
Ultimately, I arrived at this: the bold patterns and Art Deco influence are what define Meisen.
I combined large-scale geometric patterns with maple leaves scattered evenly throughout the fabric. This allows any portion to be cut and enjoyed, while garments made from the fabric can offer dramatically different impressions depending on how the patterns are arranged. The “space” I left in the design is intentional—an invitation for new possibilities after the fabric leaves my hands.
On a technical note, I kept in mind the ease of subsequent processes like dyeing, weaving, and tailoring for the craftspeople involved—though I can't say for sure if I succeeded!
This design also incorporates a method I’ve been experimenting with: increasing visible color depth without increasing the number of stencils used.
Though it may seem subdued in monochrome at first glance, the bold scale of the design, combined with the luster of silk, ensures a striking and elegant finish.
If possible, I sincerely hope it will be made into a kimono. The effect will be far more radiant and lively than it appears on the roll.
◆制作:FIND Chichibu Silk Research Society
◆製造:Henmi Orimono